A modern helm runs on two pieces of gear more than any other: marine radar and a chartplotter. The radar for boats gives you a live picture of what is physically around you, painted from radio energy that bounces off other vessels, buoys, land, and heavy rain. The chartplotter gives you a live picture of where you sit on the electronic chart, fed by GPS and stitched to depth, heading, and traffic. Put them on one network and you have a helm that shows you both the map and the world at the same time. This guide walks through how each works, how they differ, what the best marine chartplotter setups look like in 2026, the real brands people actually buy, and how the whole system wires together.
I have installed and repaired this equipment on everything from 24 foot center consoles to 80 foot motor yachts, and the same questions come up on every dock. What is the difference between a radome and an open array? Do I need pulse radar or the newer solid-state kind? How big a screen fits my helm? Can one display run radar, sonar, and autopilot at once? This article answers all of that in plain language, and if you would rather hand the wiring to a professional, Yacht Service Network lets you find a marine electronics installer free.
People blur these two together because they usually share a screen, but they solve different problems. A chartplotter answers the question "where am I, and where is the safe water." Marine radar answers the question "what is out there right now, and is it moving toward me." You want both, and you want them overlaid, because each covers the other's blind spot.
The chartplotter draws its confidence from stored data. It knows the charted depth, the marked hazards, the buoy positions, and your GPS fix. What it does not know is the fishing boat that anchored last night in the middle of the channel, the container ship overtaking you in fog, or the squall line building off your port bow. That is radar's job. Radar sees real objects in real time, whether or not anyone put them on a chart.
The reverse is also true. Radar shows you a target three miles out but it will not tell you that target is sitting on top of a shoal, or that the gap you are steering for is only four feet deep at low tide. The chart carries that knowledge. When you run both on the same multifunction display and switch on radar overlay, the radar returns paint directly on top of the electronic chart, and suddenly a fuzzy green blob becomes "that is the tug abeam of green can number seven, and it is closing." That fusion is the single strongest reason to build one integrated system instead of two standalone boxes.
Marine radar transmits radio energy from a spinning antenna, listens for the echoes that come back off solid objects, and times how long each echo takes to return. Because radio waves travel at a known speed, that timing converts directly into distance. The spinning antenna tells the set which direction the echo came from. The display then paints a bearing and a range for every return, sweeping around like a clock hand and building the familiar circular picture with your boat at the center.
Two things determine how far and how well a radar sees. The first is transmit power and antenna design, which set the raw reach and the ability to punch through rain. The second is the antenna's beam width, which sets how well the radar separates two targets sitting close together in bearing. A narrow horizontal beam draws two nearby boats as two distinct blips. A wide beam smears them into one. This is why antenna length matters so much, and it is the core split between the two physical antenna shapes you can buy.
A radome is a sealed dome, usually 18 to 24 inches across, with the spinning antenna hidden inside a weatherproof plastic shell. Nothing moving is exposed. It is compact, it mounts cleanly on a mast or a hardtop, and it is the natural choice for sailboats and smaller powerboats where deck space and windage are precious. The trade is beam width. A short antenna inside a small dome produces a wider horizontal beam, so target separation at distance is coarser.
An open array is the bare spinning bar you see on commercial vessels and larger yachts, typically 3.5, 4, or 6 feet wide, turning under an open pedestal. The longer the array, the narrower the horizontal beam, the sharper the target separation, and the faster you can spin it for a crisper picture. A 6 foot open array will pick a small boat out of a crowded anchorage far better than any radome. The cost is size, weight, windage, price, and the need for real mounting height and structure. For most yachts above roughly 40 feet that run offshore, an open array earns its keep. Below that, a good radome covers the job.
The older technology is magnetron pulse radar. It fires a short, very high power burst, then listens. Pulse radar has excellent long range punch, which is why big-ship and long-range offshore installs still favor high-power magnetron open arrays that reach 72 or even 96 nautical miles. The downsides are a warm-up delay of a minute or two before the magnetron is ready, higher power draw, and a large minimum range, meaning it struggles to show objects very close to the boat. The magnetron is also a wear item that eventually needs replacing.
The newer technology is broadband, also sold as solid-state or FMCW radar. Instead of one big pulse, it sweeps a continuous low-power signal across a frequency range and measures the difference in frequency of the returning echo to work out distance. Solid-state radar turns on instantly with no warm-up, sips power, and excels at short range, painting sharp detail from a few feet off the bow out to close and mid ranges. That makes it superb for close-quarters work: picking your way into a crowded harbor, holding position on a mooring field in fog, or spotting a channel marker fifty yards ahead. Early broadband sets gave up long range reach, but the 2026 generation of pulse-compression solid-state radars closes most of that gap and now reaches out to 48, 72, or in some open-array models 96 nautical miles while keeping the instant-on, low-power, close-range advantages. For the majority of owners buying today, a solid-state radome or open array is the right call.
The advertised maximum range on the box is a marketing number that assumes tall targets and a mast-top antenna. In practice, radar is line-of-sight. It cannot see past the horizon any more than your eyes can. Mount height is everything. A radome ten feet off the water might genuinely paint another small boat at six to eight miles, and a large ship or a coastline at fifteen to twenty. Raise that same antenna to twenty-five feet up a sailboat mast and your usable range jumps because the radar horizon moves out. So when you read that a set reaches 48 miles, understand that number only matters for tall land and big ships, and only if you can mount the antenna high enough. For collision avoidance with small craft, real usable range is a handful of miles, and that is where the picture quality of a good antenna pays off.
Seeing a blip is one thing. Knowing whether it will hit you is another. MARPA, Mini Automatic Radar Plotting Aid, is the feature that turns a raw radar return into a tracked target with a computed course, speed, closest point of approach, and time to that closest point. You cursor onto a target, tell the radar to acquire it, and the set watches it sweep after sweep, drawing a vector that shows where it is heading. If two vectors are going to intersect near your position, MARPA alarms. On a foggy night with three vessels converging, MARPA is the difference between guessing and knowing. It needs a good heading sensor to work, a fluxgate or satellite compass feeding the network, because the radar must know which way your own bow is pointing to compute a true track. Any serious offshore radar install includes a heading sensor for exactly this reason. Pair MARPA with AIS target data on the same screen and you have a genuinely strong collision-avoidance picture: AIS tells you the name, size, and intentions of the ships that transmit, and MARPA catches everything that does not.
| Factor | Radome | Open Array | Pulse (Magnetron) | Solid-State / Broadband |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Best for | Sailboats, small to mid powerboats | Yachts 40 ft and up, offshore | Long-range offshore, big-ship | Coastal, harbor, all-round 2026 default |
| Antenna size | 18 to 24 in dome | 3.5 to 6 ft bar | Either shape | Either shape |
| Target separation | Fair (wide beam) | Excellent (narrow beam) | Depends on antenna | Depends on antenna |
| Warm-up | Varies by tech | Varies by tech | 1 to 2 min magnetron warm-up | Instant on |
| Power draw | Low to moderate | Moderate to high | Higher | Low |
| Close range detail | Good | Good | Weak near the boat | Excellent, sees a few feet off the bow |
| Max range | 24 to 48 nm typical | 48 to 96 nm | 72 to 96 nm | 36 to 96 nm (2026 pulse-compression) |
| 2026 price range | $900 to $2,500 | $2,500 to $8,000+ | Often bundled in open array | Small premium, now mainstream |
A chartplotter in its simplest form is a screen showing an electronic chart with your GPS position marked on it, plus tools to set waypoints, build routes, and record tracks. In 2026 almost nobody buys a plain chartplotter anymore. What sits at the helm is a multifunction display, an MFD, which is a chartplotter that also runs radar, sonar, engine data, autopilot control, camera feeds, and entertainment, all from one glass screen with a menu to switch between them or split them into windows. When people say "chartplotter" today they usually mean an MFD, and every major brand builds its lineup this way.
The MFD is the brain and the face of the whole helm. Everything else, the radar antenna, the depth transducer, the GPS puck, the AIS unit, the autopilot computer, connects to it over the boat network, and the MFD is where you see and control all of it. Choosing your MFD line effectively chooses your ecosystem, because while there are open standards for data sharing, radar and sonar tend to work best inside one brand's family. Pick the display brand first, then buy the antenna, transducer, and autopilot that speak its native language.
MFD screens run from compact 7 inch units up to 16, 22, and 24 inch glass bridge displays. The right size depends on your helm real estate, your typical use, and how many functions you want to see at once. A 7 or 9 inch screen suits a small boat or a secondary station, and it is fine for chart plus one other view. A 12 inch screen is the sweet spot for most mid-size boats, big enough to split chart and radar side by side and still read both. On boats where you run chart, radar, and sonar together, or where you want the chart large while radar stays visible, step up to a single 16 inch display or run two 12 inch screens networked together.
Two smaller displays networked often beat one giant screen, because if one fails you still have the other, and you can dedicate one to chart and one to radar. That redundancy matters offshore. Whatever size you choose, mount it where the helmsman can reach the touchscreen without leaning and read it in direct sun. Screen brightness and sunlight readability separate a good marine display from a repurposed tablet. Marine MFDs run 1,000 to 1,500 nits or more and treat the glass so it stays visible behind polarized sunglasses. Touchscreen alone is a problem in rough water, so the better helms keep physical rotary and button control as well, either built into the display or on a separate keypad, so you can operate the plotter when the boat is pounding and your finger will not land where you aim.
An MFD is only as good as the chart loaded in it. The two dominant chart providers are Navionics, owned by Garmin, and C-MAP, owned by Brunswick. Both sell detailed vector charts with depth contours, marina data, tides and currents, and community-sourced sonar depth layers that show far finer contour detail than the official surveys. Navionics is famous for its huge user base and its SonarChart and community edits. C-MAP counters with its own high-resolution bathymetry and its Reveal and Discover product tiers.
Which chart you can run depends partly on your MFD brand, though the lines have blurred. Garmin plotters run Garmin's own BlueChart and Navionics. Raymarine, Simrad, B&G, and Lowrance displays run Navionics and C-MAP. Furuno runs C-MAP, Navionics, and its own charts. On top of the commercial charts, most MFDs can also display official government raster and vector charts, which in United States waters are now the electronic navigational charts published by NOAA, since the old paper-style raster charts were retired. The practical move is to keep at least two chart sources loaded, a commercial vector chart for the rich detail and the official ENC data as a cross-check, because no single chart is perfect and cross-referencing catches errors.
| Feature | What it does | Who needs it |
|---|---|---|
| GPS / GNSS position | Fixes your location from satellites, drives everything else | Every boat |
| Chart engine | Displays Navionics or C-MAP vector charts, waypoints, routes | Every boat |
| Radar overlay | Paints live radar returns on the chart for target identity | Anyone running offshore or in fog |
| Sonar / sounder | Shows depth, bottom structure, fish, via a transducer | Anglers, shoal-water cruisers |
| AIS display | Shows named, tracked commercial and equipped vessels | Coastal and offshore, shipping lanes |
| Autopilot control | Steers a route or a heading from the MFD screen | Long passages, short-handed crews |
| Engine / NMEA 2000 data | Displays fuel, RPM, temps, tank levels | Most modern powerboats |
| Camera / thermal | Feeds FLIR, backup, and engine-room cameras to the screen | Night runners, larger yachts |
| Wireless and app | Mirrors the display to a phone or tablet, pushes chart updates | Most owners in 2026 |
The reason a modern helm feels like one machine instead of a shelf of gadgets is the network underneath it. Every sensor and every display talks over shared cabling, so the GPS position that the chartplotter uses is the same position the AIS transponder broadcasts and the same position the autopilot steers by. Here is how the pieces fit together.
GPS or GNSS is the foundation. A dedicated antenna, often a small puck mounted with a clear sky view, delivers position, speed over ground, and course over ground to the whole system. Modern receivers pull in GPS, GLONASS, Galileo, and BeiDou constellations together for a faster, tighter fix. Some yachts add a satellite compass, which uses multiple GPS antennas to derive true heading without a magnetic sensor, feeding both the radar's MARPA and the autopilot.
AIS, the Automatic Identification System, is the network's most valuable safety layer. Commercial ships and many recreational boats broadcast their name, position, course, speed, and dimensions over VHF frequencies. An AIS receiver picks those broadcasts up and plots them on your chart as named, tracked targets. An AIS transponder does the same and also transmits your boat so others see you. On the chart, an approaching tanker stops being an anonymous radar smear and becomes "MV Northern Star, 900 feet, making 14 knots, CPA 0.3 miles in eleven minutes." Because AIS and VHF share the same radio band, the AIS install ties into the wider radio picture. If you are sorting out VHF, DSC, and MMSI at the same time, the VHF marine radio, GMDSS, and MMSI guide covers how that side connects.
Sonar or sounder data comes from a transducer mounted through the hull or on the transom. It sends depth to every display and, on fishing setups, detailed bottom structure and fish returns. The transducer connects either straight to a sounder-equipped MFD or through a separate sonar module (a black box) that does the heavy processing for high-power CHIRP and side-scan imaging.
Autopilot is a course computer, a rudder or drive actuator, and a heading sensor, all tied to the MFD. Once networked, you can select a route on the chartplotter and tell the autopilot to steer it, turning at each waypoint. The autopilot uses the same GPS and heading data as the radar and chart, which is why building on one network matters so much. Cross-wired brands and mismatched data formats are where autopilot installs go wrong.
Radar ties in last but sits at the center of situational awareness. The antenna sends its returns to the MFD, and the MFD merges those returns with the chart (overlay), the heading sensor (so MARPA can compute tracks), and the AIS targets (so tracked ships and painted blips line up). When all of that shares one network, the helm shows a single fused picture. That fusion is the whole point of an integrated system, and it only works if the wiring standard underneath is consistent.
Two networking standards carry the data. NMEA 2000 is the modern backbone, a single trunk cable with drop connections, powered, that carries GPS position, heading, depth, engine data, wind, AIS, and autopilot commands between devices as small standardized messages. It is plug-and-play in principle: you run a backbone, add tee connectors, drop each device in, terminate both ends, and the network sorts itself out. In practice, people get the power tap wrong, forget the terminators, or overload the backbone, and then chase gremlins for weeks. Radar, sonar video, and chart data are too heavy for NMEA 2000, so those run over each brand's high-bandwidth Ethernet network instead, a separate cable that carries the picture while NMEA 2000 carries the numbers.
So a full helm has two layers of cabling. The NMEA 2000 backbone links all the sensors and shares the numeric data. The Ethernet network links the MFDs, the radar, and the sonar black boxes and shares the high-bandwidth radar and sonar imagery. Get both right and every screen sees everything. Get them wrong and you have displays that show depth but not radar, or radar that will not overlay because heading never reached it. This is the part of the job where hiring a professional pays for itself, because diagnosing a network fault after the fact costs more than wiring it cleanly the first time. For a deeper walkthrough of the backbone, terminators, and load planning, the NMEA 2000 and marine electronics networking guide goes step by step, and the broader marine electronics installation guide covers mounting, power, and grounding.
Physical installation carries its own list. The radar antenna needs a solid, level mount at height, aimed dead ahead and clear of obstructions that would throw shadows. The GPS antenna needs open sky. The transducer needs a spot with clean water flow and no turbulence off through-hull fittings ahead of it. Every device needs clean, correctly fused power, and the whole system needs a proper common ground to keep interference off the screens. Cable runs should be planned so nothing crosses an antenna cable with a power line running parallel, because that induces noise into the picture. None of this is exotic, but all of it rewards care, and small mistakes show up as intermittent faults that are miserable to trace.
Five names run the recreational and light-commercial market, and each has a personality worth knowing before you commit, because once you buy into an ecosystem the antenna, sonar, and autopilot follow.
Garmin dominates the mainstream. Its GPSMAP MFD line spans 7 inch units up to big glass helm displays, its interface is the friendliest for newcomers, and because Garmin owns Navionics the chart integration is tight. Garmin radars, from compact solid-state radomes to open arrays, plug straight into the same displays. If you want the widest dealer network, the easiest menus, and strong resale, Garmin is the safe default, and it covers everything from a bass boat to a sizable yacht.
Raymarine, owned by Teledyne FLIR, builds the Axiom line of MFDs with a slick touch interface and a genuine advantage in thermal night vision, since FLIR cameras integrate natively. Raymarine's Quantum solid-state radomes and Magnum open arrays are well regarded, and its Evolution autopilots are among the easiest to set up. Raymarine suits owners who run at night, want thermal imaging, and like a modern touchscreen.
Simrad targets serious powerboat and sportfishing helms. Its NSS and NSX displays pair with Halo solid-state pulse-compression radars, which are excellent all-rounders reaching out to 48, 72, or 96 nautical miles depending on the model while still painting sharp close-range detail. Simrad also has strong autopilot and engine integration for outboard-heavy center consoles, which is why you see it on so many offshore fishing boats.
Furuno is the choice when reliability outranks flash. It is the brand commercial captains and long-range cruisers reach for, with the NavNet TZtouch MFD line and radars, both magnetron and solid-state, that hold up season after season. The interface is less consumer-slick than Garmin or Raymarine, but the underlying performance, especially the radar and sonar processing, is trusted on vessels that stay at sea. If you cross oceans or run commercially, Furuno belongs on the short list.
B&G, a sister brand to Simrad under Navico, is built for sailors. Its Zeus and Vulcan displays carry sailing-specific features like laylines, sailing time and distance calculations, wind plots, and racing tools that no powerboat-focused brand bothers with. B&G runs the same Halo radars and shares much of Simrad's hardware, so a sailor gets proven electronics wrapped in software that actually understands tacking and wind. If you sail seriously, B&G is the natural fit.
The honest advice: any of the five will serve you well if installed correctly. Choose based on your use (fishing, sailing, night running, offshore reliability), your budget, and which brand your local installer knows best, because a dealer who lives inside one ecosystem will give you better support than a bargain on a brand nobody nearby services.
Prices move, but here is the realistic 2026 picture for buying and fitting this gear. A basic small-boat setup, a 7 or 9 inch MFD with built-in GPS and sonar and a chart card, runs roughly $700 to $1,600 for the hardware. Add a solid-state radome and you are typically adding $900 to $2,500 depending on brand and range. A 12 inch MFD sits around $1,800 to $3,500 on its own, and glass-helm displays of 16 inches and up run $3,500 to $8,000 each.
An open array radar for a larger yacht lands between $2,500 and $8,000 and beyond for the longest, most capable arrays. An AIS transponder runs $500 to $1,200, a satellite compass or good heading sensor $300 to $2,000, and a full autopilot with course computer, drive, and heading sensor $1,500 to $6,000 depending on boat size and steering type. A high-power CHIRP sonar black box with a quality transducer adds $1,000 to $3,000 for anglers who want it.
Then there is labor. A clean multi-device install, running both the NMEA 2000 backbone and the Ethernet network, mounting antennas and transducers, and commissioning the autopilot and radar, commonly runs $1,500 to $6,000 or more in shop time depending on the boat and how much has to be fished through tight spaces. That labor is not where you cut corners. A $10,000 electronics package wired badly performs worse than a $5,000 package wired right. Budget for the install as part of the system, not an afterthought, and get quotes from more than one installer so you can compare scope, not just price.
A radar and chartplotter package is only as good as the hands that fit it. The best gear in the catalog will disappoint if the antenna is misaligned, the heading sensor is missing, or the network is wired without terminators. When you look for an installer, ask a few direct questions. Have they wired your MFD brand before? Will they run a proper NMEA 2000 backbone with correct terminators rather than daisy-chaining devices? Do they commission the autopilot with a sea trial? Will they align the radar and confirm MARPA works against a known target? A pro who answers those cleanly is worth more than the cheapest quote.
Yacht Service Network exists to make that match simple. You post what you want done, whether it is a single chartplotter swap or a full glass-helm refit, and vetted marine electronics contractors near you send quotes. It is free for owners and captains to use, there is no markup on the work, and you deal directly with the installer. You can compare their experience, read their history, and pick the person who actually knows your brand.
If you install this gear for a living, the same platform works the other way. Marine electronics contractors can list their business free, show the brands they are certified on, and receive job requests from boat owners in their area without paying for leads. A directory listing plus direct job matching puts your shop in front of the owners already looking for exactly your skill set.
If you are starting from a bare helm or ripping out old gear, build in a sensible order so each piece has what it needs. Start with the MFD, because it decides your ecosystem. Add the GPS or GNSS antenna and confirm a solid position fix. Lay the NMEA 2000 backbone next, with proper power and terminators, and drop in the depth and engine data so you have a working chart, depth, and speed picture. Then add AIS, tied into your VHF antenna picture, so you see and are seen. Bring in the heading sensor, because both radar MARPA and the autopilot depend on it. Then mount and network the radar over the Ethernet layer, align it, and test overlay and MARPA against known targets. Commission the autopilot last, with a sea trial to tune the steering response. Finished in that sequence, each stage tests clean before the next depends on it, and fault-finding stays simple.
Owners who want to keep an eye on all of this from a phone will appreciate that most 2026 MFDs mirror to a mobile app and push chart updates wirelessly. You can plan routes on the couch, send them to the plotter, and glance at the boat's systems from the dock. To keep your own project details, quotes, and installer messages in one place on the go, download the Yacht Service Network app at the app download page and manage the whole job from your phone.
If you ever run in fog, at night, or in busy water, yes. AIS only shows vessels that transmit, and plenty of small boats, fishing skiffs, kayaks, and floating debris carry no transponder. Radar sees real objects whether or not they broadcast, and it also shows rain and squall lines the chart cannot. The chartplotter tells you where the safe water is, AIS tells you about the big equipped ships, and radar catches everything else. The three together are far stronger than any one alone.
Pulse radar fires one big burst of energy and listens for the echo. It has strong long-range reach but needs a warm-up, draws more power, and is weak up close. Solid-state, also called broadband, sweeps a low-power continuous signal and turns on instantly, sips power, and paints excellent close-range detail. The 2026 solid-state sets now reach nearly as far as pulse for most owners, so unless you specifically need extreme long-range offshore performance, solid-state is the better everyday choice.
If your boat is under about 40 feet, or you sail and care about windage and mast clearance, a radome is the right pick: compact, sealed, and plenty for coastal work. If your boat is larger, runs offshore, and you want to pick small targets out of clutter at distance, an open array's narrow beam gives noticeably sharper target separation. The open array costs more, weighs more, and needs a real mounting structure, but it earns that on a bigger vessel.
Yes. That is exactly what a multifunction display does. A 12 inch or larger MFD can split into windows showing chart, radar, and sonar together, control the autopilot, and display engine data, all from one glass panel, provided each device is on the network and shares the same ecosystem. Many owners run two networked displays so they can dedicate one to chart and one to radar, and keep a working screen if one ever fails.
Both are excellent, and the honest answer is that either serves you well. Navionics, owned by Garmin, has a huge user base and strong community depth data. C-MAP, owned by Brunswick, offers its own high-resolution bathymetry and detailed tiers. Which you run often comes down to your MFD brand and personal preference. The smart practice is to keep a commercial chart plus the official government electronic charts loaded and cross-check them, because no single chart is flawless.
A modest small-boat setup with a 9 inch MFD, GPS, sonar, and a solid-state radome runs roughly $2,000 to $4,500 in hardware. A mid-size boat with a 12 inch display, radar, AIS, and autopilot commonly lands between $6,000 and $15,000 installed. A larger yacht with dual glass-helm displays, an open array, satellite compass, thermal camera, and full autopilot can run $20,000 to $60,000 or more. Labor for a clean multi-device install typically adds $1,500 to $6,000 depending on the boat, and it is not the place to cut corners.
MARPA needs an accurate heading sensor feeding the network, either a fluxgate compass or a satellite compass, because the radar must know which way your bow points to compute a target's true course. It also needs the radar aligned correctly to the boat's centerline during install. If your MARPA readings drift or targets jump, the usual culprit is a missing, poorly mounted, or uncalibrated heading sensor. A good installer confirms MARPA against a known moving target during the sea trial.
Some of it, yes. Mounting a display and loading a chart card is within reach of a handy owner. Where most self-installs go wrong is the network: running the NMEA 2000 backbone with correct power and terminators, adding the separate Ethernet layer for radar and sonar, aligning the radar, and commissioning the autopilot. Those steps reward experience, and a mistake shows up as an intermittent fault that is miserable to trace later. Many owners fit the simple parts and hire a pro for the network and commissioning.
Marine radar and a chartplotter are the two instruments that turn a boat into a vessel you can run safely in any conditions. The chartplotter, really a multifunction display in 2026, is the brain and the face of the helm, showing your position on the electronic chart and tying every sensor together. The radar is your live eyes, painting real objects the chart never knew about, and MARPA turns those objects into tracked threats or clear passes. Put them on one clean network with GPS, AIS, sonar, and autopilot, choose the ecosystem that matches how you use your boat, and fit it all with care, and you have a helm that shows you both the map and the world at once.
The gear matters, but the install matters just as much. A well-chosen system wired by someone who knows your brand outperforms a more expensive package thrown together in a hurry. Whether you are adding a first radome to a coastal cruiser or building a dual-display glass helm for offshore work, get the plan right, get the network right, and get the right installer. When you are ready, Yacht Service Network makes finding that installer free and direct, and if you fit this equipment for a living, it puts your shop in front of the owners already looking.